Chapped lips: how to heal dry, cracked lips and what to avoid

Lips have a very thin outer layer and no oil glands, so they lose water faster than most skin. That is why they are often the first place to crack in cold, windy or dry weather. The good news is that the fix is simple, but a few popular lip products can quietly make it worse.

Quick answer: Apply a fragrance-free lip balm or ointment with petrolatum, ceramides, shea butter or dimethicone several times a day and before bed. Outdoors, use a lip balm with SPF 30 or higher. Stop licking, biting and picking your lips. Skip products that tingle, sting or burn. Most chapped lips improve within 2 to 3 weeks.

Why lips get chapped

Chapped lips (doctors call lip inflammation "cheilitis") happen when the thin lip surface loses more water than it can hold. Common triggers include:

• Licking your lips. Saliva feels soothing for a second, then evaporates and leaves lips drier than before.
• Weather. Cold air, wind, dry indoor heating and air conditioning all pull water out of the skin.
• Sun. Lips burn easily, and sun damage over many years can also change the lip surface.
• Mouth breathing, especially at night with a blocked nose.
• Medicines. Acne medicines such as isotretinoin very often dry the lips, and retinoids used on the face can spread onto them.
• Irritation or allergy. Fragrance, flavorings, some toothpaste ingredients and lip product ingredients can irritate lips or cause an allergic reaction.
• Habits. Biting, picking, or holding metal objects such as pens, paperclips or jewelry between the lips.

If your lips are dry all year round, a skin condition such as eczema may be involved. Our page on dry, chapped lips covers the everyday side of this concern.

The routine that helps most

You do not need a complicated routine. You need the right texture, applied often, and fewer irritants.

During the day

• Apply a fragrance-free lip balm several times a day, and whenever you feel the urge to lick your lips.
• Before going outside, apply a lip balm with SPF 30 or higher, even in winter. Reapply about every 2 hours outdoors, and after eating or drinking.
• Wash your hands before applying balm from a pot, and do not share lip products.

At night

• Apply a thick layer of an ointment, such as plain white petroleum jelly (petrolatum). Ointments seal in water longer than waxy sticks or oils.
• If you breathe through your mouth while sleeping, a humidifier in the bedroom can help.

At home

• Drink enough water through the day.
• Cover your lips with a scarf in cold, windy weather.
• Let flakes come off on their own. Peeling or biting them slows healing and can cause bleeding.

Lip scrubs are not needed for healing. Rubbing already cracked lips can make them sorer. If you like a scrub, wait until lips have fully healed.

For a deeper look at product types, see our guide to lip care.

Ingredients that help and ingredients to avoid

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) suggests choosing lip products that are fragrance-free and labeled hypoallergenic, which means made to lower the chance of an allergic reaction.

A simple rule from dermatologists: if a lip product burns, stings or tingles, it is irritating your lips, so stop using it.

What about lanolin?

Lanolin is a rich fat from sheep's wool and appears in many lip balms. It works well for many people. However, it is a known cause of allergic reactions in some people, and the AAD lists it among ingredients to avoid while lips are chapped. If your lips get worse with a lanolin balm, switch to plain petrolatum.

How the textures compare

Ointments (petrolatum-based) are the most protective and are best for very dry, cracked lips. Waxy sticks are handy in a pocket but seal less. Lip oils feel nice but do not protect for long on their own. The "seal" ingredients are called occlusives: they form a thin layer that slows water loss.

Chapped lips from acne medicines

Dry lips are one of the most common side effects of isotretinoin, a prescription acne medicine, and they can also happen with retinoid creams.

• Use a thick balm or ointment many times a day, starting from the first day of treatment.
• Apply a layer of petrolatum at night.
• Keep face retinoids away from the lip line, and put balm on first as a barrier.
• Tell your dermatologist if your lips crack, bleed or become very sore. They can suggest other options. Do not stop or change a prescribed medicine without talking to your doctor.

Habits that keep lips cracked

• Lip plumpers with cinnamon, pepper extract (capsicum) or menthol on already chapped lips.
• Long-wear matte lipsticks, which can feel drying. Put a thin balm underneath, and remove lipstick gently at night.
• Licking over balm, which removes it and adds saliva.
• Picking at flakes or biting the lips when stressed.

How long until lips heal

With steady care, lips usually feel softer within a few days. The AAD says to expect a clear improvement in about 2 to 3 weeks. If they have not improved by then, it is worth seeing a dermatologist, because something other than dry weather may be the cause.

When to see a doctor or dermatologist

Chapped lips are usually harmless, but see a doctor or dermatologist if you notice:

• No improvement after 2 to 3 weeks of gentle care, or lips that get worse.
• Lips that are hot, painful and swollen, which can be a sign of infection.
• Cracks at the corners of the mouth that keep coming back. This is called angular cheilitis. Saliva collecting in the corners is the most common cause, and yeast or bacteria can be involved. Low levels of iron or some B vitamins can play a part, so a doctor may check.
• A rough, scaly or discolored patch on the lip, usually the lower lip, that does not heal. This can be actinic cheilitis, a sun-related change that can be precancerous (it can turn into skin cancer if not treated). It needs a check, especially if you spend a lot of time outdoors.
• Swelling, blisters or a rash around the mouth after a new lip product, toothpaste or food.
• A sore that bleeds again and again or does not heal.

Get emergency help if lip or face swelling comes with trouble breathing or swallowing.

People who also have very dry, itchy patches elsewhere may have eczema; see our page on eczema-prone skin.

FAQ

Is lip balm "addiction" real?

You cannot become addicted to lip balm. But balms with irritating ingredients such as menthol, camphor or fragrance can dry or irritate lips, so you feel you need to reapply more and more. A plain, fragrance-free ointment usually breaks the cycle.

Is petroleum jelly safe on lips?

For most people, yes. Dermatologists often recommend plain white petroleum jelly for very dry, cracked lips, especially at night, because it seals in water well.

Do lip masks work?

Most lip masks are thick balms or ointments in a pot. Applied at night, they can help in the same way as a layer of petrolatum.

Should I exfoliate chapped lips?

Not while they are cracked or sore. Exfoliating can irritate them more. Let flakes come off as the lips heal.

Why do my lips peel even when I use balm?

Your balm may contain an irritant such as fragrance, flavor or menthol. You may also be licking your lips, breathing through your mouth at night, or reacting to toothpaste. If peeling lasts more than a few weeks, see a dermatologist.

Sources

• 7 dermatologists' tips for healing dry, chapped lips (American Academy of Dermatology)
• Sore or dry lips (NHS)
• Angular cheilitis (DermNet)
• Cheilitis (DermNet)
• Actinic cheilitis (Cleveland Clinic)