Self tanner: how to apply it streak-free on every skin tone

A self tanner gives skin a tan color without sun or tanning beds, which avoids the skin cancer risk of UV tanning. With good prep and a thin, even layer, it can look natural on every skin tone.

Quick answer: Exfoliate and shave the day before, moisturize only dry spots (knees, elbows, ankles, hands), apply a thin layer with a mitt in long strokes, wash your palms, and let it dry before dressing. Choose a shade only a little deeper than your natural skin tone, or a gradual formula. Self tanner does not protect you from the sun, so use sunscreen every day.

How does self tanner work?

The main ingredient in most self tanners is DHA (dihydroxyacetone). It reacts with amino acids in the top layer of your skin, which is made of dead cells, and turns that layer brown. It is not a dye that sits on top, and it does not involve UV light. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists DHA as a color additive approved for external use.

The color usually starts to show within a few hours and may keep deepening for a day or two. It fades gradually, usually within about a week, as the skin cells naturally shed. Anything that speeds up exfoliation, such as scrubbing or exfoliating acids, makes the tan fade sooner and more unevenly.

Prep: how to get a smooth base

1. The day before: gently exfoliate with a body scrub or mitt, and shave or wax. Doing this the day before helps avoid dark dots in the follicles.
2. Right before: use clean, dry skin. Skip deodorant, perfume and body oil, which can block the color.
3. Dry areas: apply a thin layer of light lotion to knees, elbows, ankles, hands, feet and the hairline. Dry, thick skin soaks up more color and can look darker or orange.
4. Wait at least 15 minutes after exfoliating, so skin is fully dry.

If you shave regularly, see shaving for ways to avoid irritation.

Application: step by step

1. Wear a tanning mitt so your palms do not stain.
2. Start at the legs and work upward in long, sweeping strokes.
3. Use what is left on the mitt for knees, elbows, hands and feet, which need the least.
4. Blend around wrists and ankles so there is no hard line.
5. For the face, use a face-specific product, or mix a few drops into your moisturizer.
6. Wash your hands right away, or brown streaks can form on your palms and between fingers.
7. Wait about 15 minutes before dressing. Wear loose, dark clothes, and avoid sweating and water for the time on the label.

Choosing a shade

Always test on a small area, such as the inner arm or the back of the calf, and wait for the final color before using it all over. A color about one or two steps deeper than your natural skin tone usually looks natural. Going darker raises the chance of an orange look.

How to fix mistakes

• Streaks or patches. Gently buff with an exfoliating mitt in the shower, or use a tan remover. Keep the pressure light.
• Dark knuckles, knees or ankles. Blot with a cotton pad and a little micellar water or tan remover soon after applying.
• Orange tone. It is usually from too dark a shade or too much product. Next time use a lighter shade and a thin layer.
• Uneven fade. Exfoliate the whole area gently and start fresh.

What not to mix

• Exfoliating acids and retinoids around the tanning day. AHAs and retinoids speed up shedding and can make color patchy. Skip them the night before and for a few days after, if you can. Retinoids can also make skin more sensitive, so use sunscreen every day. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using a retinoid.
• Self tanner right after shaving. It can collect in the follicles and look like dark dots.
• Lotions or oils on top too soon. Wait until the tan is dry.

Safety: lotions, mousses and spray tans

DHA is approved only for external use. The FDA says it is not approved for the eye area, lips or other mucous membranes (the moist linings of the mouth, nose and eyes), and it has not approved all-over spraying or misting. In a spray booth, exposure to the eyes, lips and nose, or breathing in the mist, may be hard to avoid. The FDA suggests asking before you go whether you will be protected around the eyes, lips and nose, and from breathing in the mist, and asking for protection if not. At home, creams, lotions and mousses are easier to apply safely than sprays.

People with sensitive skin may prefer fragrance-free products, and a patch test on a small area is a good habit. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor, especially about spray tans. Lotions are often considered lower concern because DHA acts on the outermost dead layer of skin, but data is limited. See sensitive skin for more.

Self tanner does not protect you from the sun

This is the most important myth. A tan from DHA does not block UV light. The FDA says only products that contain sunscreen ingredients and carry an SPF label may offer protection, and products without sunscreen must carry a warning that they do not protect against sunburn. Even when a product lists SPF, the Skin Cancer Foundation advises using a separate sunscreen.

Use a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher every day, and SPF 50 or higher for long periods outdoors. See everyday sun protection and body sunscreen.

How long until you see results?

Color usually shows within a few hours, and keeps deepening for a day or two. It fades over about a week. Using a gradual tanner every few days keeps the color steady.

When to see a doctor

• A rash, hives, itching or swelling after using self tanner. This may be an allergy to the formula.
• Cough, wheezing or trouble breathing after a spray tan. Stop and seek medical help.
• A mole or spot that changes in size, shape or color, or that bleeds. Check your skin regularly and ask a dermatologist about anything new or changing.
• Broken, burned or very irritated skin. Do not apply self tanner until it heals.

FAQ

Why does self tanner smell?

The smell comes from DHA reacting with the skin. Many products add fragrance or other ingredients to mask it, and people with sensitive skin may prefer fragrance-free ones.

Can I use self tanner while pregnant?

Ask your doctor. Lotions are often considered lower concern than sprays, but data is limited.

Does self tanner cover stretch marks?

It can soften how they look, but white or lighter marks may take color differently. See stretch marks.

Can I swim or sweat after applying?

Wait the time on the label first. Water and sweat can cause streaks while the color develops.

Do I still need sunscreen with a self tan?

Yes, every day.

Sources

• Sunless Tanners & Bronzers (US Food and Drug Administration)
• Fake it to Make it: Sunless Tanning Explained (Skin Cancer Foundation)
• 10 surprising facts about indoor tanning (American Academy of Dermatology)
• In search of the perfect tan: Chemical activity, biological effects, business considerations, and consumer implications of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products (PubMed Central, NIH)